Mt. Logan, King’s Trench

Types: Canada/North America, Climbing and Mountaineering, Expeditions, Ski Mountaineering

Region: Yukon

Mt. Logan, King’s Trench

Mt. Logan: Canada’s Highest Point! Located in the SW corner of the Yukon Territory, near the Alaska border, is the 5959m (19,551′) high Mt. Logan. Surrounded by the rugged peaks of the St. Elias range in the heart of the Kluane National Park, Logan is the 2nd highest peak in North America.

Next Course:
Leaving May 10 2025 from $10,999.00

Mt. Logan, King’s Trench

Located in the SW corner of the Yukon Territory, near the Alaska border, is the 5959m (19,551′) high Mt. Logan.  Surrounded by the rugged peaks of the St. Elias range in the heart of the Kluane National Park, Logan is the 2nd highest peak in North America, just behind the much more famous Denali. But, unlike Denali, there are no crowds on Logan. Just the vast icefields and rugged peaks of the roof of Canada. Logan is ideal for experienced ski mountaineers that want to test their skills on an aesthetic and challenging mountain.

2025 will be the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of Mt. Logan!!! And of course we have a trip planned for this momentous occasion so join us in climbing the highest peak in Canada on the centennial! You can find more information on the original climb here.


The Route:

The King’s Trench is the most common route on Logan and one that can be tackled as a ski mountaineering objective or, for private trips, using snowshoes.

This route features generally straightforward ski touring terrain on large broken glaciers and involves winter camping at high altitude. The ascent gradually climbs 3500m over 23kms, from base camp to summit, and offers a fantastic panorama on some of the biggest glaciers in the world. Mount Logan is for advanced ski mountaineers wishing to push their skills on a challenging summit.

The King’s Trench is, at its core, a high altitude ski tour. There’s no technical climbing on the route. Starting from a basecamp at about 2800m, we gradually ascend up the Trench to the to the King Col camp at 4130m. This section is quite low angle allowing us to utilize sleds to help haul our equipment. After the King Col camp we no longer have that ability and will be carrying everything on our back.

From the King Col camp we gradually push up to our high camp on the summit plateau at 5080m. For this part of the climb we employ the classic “carry high, sleep low” method to aid in acclimatization. We don’t ascend more than 600m per day and take rest days as needed.

Typical layout of camps:

  • Basecamp: 2750m
  • Camp 1: 3300m
  • Camp 2 (King Col): 4130m
  • Camp 3: 4870m
  • High Camp (Summit Plateau): 5080m
Logan
Summit Day. Photo: Holly Walker.

Once we reach the summit plateau we set up our high camp and prepare for an attempt on the 5959m summit. We’ll wait for the best weather window before making the attempt to maximize our chances of success. If the team has acclimatized well and the weather cooperates we’ll arrive at high camp with a week worth of provisions buying us lots of time at high camp and increasing the chances of success.

After we tag the summit it takes a couple of days to get back down to basecamp. Then it’s a quick flight back to civilization… so long as the weather’s good. Sometimes it takes a few days to get picked up for the return flight to Kluane Lake.

Mt. Logan SummitSummit vs. Safety: It’s important to know that standing on the summit of Mt. Logan is not guaranteed. There are numerous factors to take into account such as the weather, avalanche conditions, snow conditions, team fitness, acclimatization and so on. Our guides are ACMG / IFMGA certified to the highest standards in the world as well as avid mountaineers. So while we’ll try our best to reach the summit with as many guests as possible, safety will be priority number 1. There’s no point in getting to the top if you don’t come down again.

Skis vs. Snowshoes:

Mt. Logan is typically climbed using ski touring equipment to ascend up to a col below the peak. However, as 2025 is the 100 anniversary of the first ascent of Mt. Logan and not every mountaineer is a skier, we're going to be offering a snowshoe trip option in addition to our regular ski mountaineering trip. This snowshoe trip will be the later of the two trips we're running for 2025 and so starts on May 23rd.

Waiver & Risk Management:

As you know, outdoor activities involve numerous hazards including, but not limited to, avalanches, crevasses, rockfall, slips and falls, equipment failure, poor weather, etc. And while we do our best to anticipate and mitigate these hazards we cannot completely eliminate them. So, as with anything fun, you will be required to sign our Participant Release to take part in one of our courses or trips.

Custom Dates Available

Just let us know what dates will work for you and we will put together a custom package.

May 10th to 30th, 2025

Deposit Required: $1,500.00

8 spots remaining
Group Size8 persons
Pricing
Quantity: $10,999.00

May 23rd to June 13th, 2025

Deposit Required: $1,500.00

8 spots remaining
Group Size8 persons
Pricing
Quantity: $10,999.00

Fine Print:

The weather and the conditions on the mountain will have a significant effect on our exact itinerary as will the team’s fitness and ability to acclimatize. However, that being said, here’s the itinerary that we’ve based the trip on:

Day 0: Meet-up in Whitehorse for a final gear check, sign waivers, review the weather and avalanche conditions, discuss logistics and catch a ride to Kluane Lake where we will check into the bunkhouse. Time allowing we may also go over some technical systems, rope rescue systems and review how things are packed.

Day 1: So long as the weather is cooperating we fly into basecamp! Unfortunately, flights from Kluane Lake into the King’s Trench are very often delayed. You will want to be prepared to hang out for a few days while we wait for a weather window.

Day 3: After an early breakfast it’s time to start climbing Logan!

Days 4-18: We will use this time as needed to slowly move up the mountain and establish a high camp on the summit plateau. Once there we will wait for a weather window for summit bid.

Days 19 & 20: Descend back down the route to our basecamp for pick-up.

Day 21: As with just about every aspect of this trip, weather can easily delay the flight. But should everything work out we fly back to Kluane Lake, catch a ride to Whitehorse and book into a hotel for a hot shower before meeting up for dinner.

Day 22: Parties over and it’s time to go home.

Mt. Logan, King’s Trench

Highlights

  • Summit Canada's Highest Point
  • Incredible Views
  • Unique and Remote Peak
Types Canada/North America, Climbing and Mountaineering, Expeditions, Ski Mountaineering
Region Yukon
Season May
Next Departure May 10 2025
Prices From $10,999.00

Difficulty: Difficulty: Advanced Advanced

The King’s Trench route on Mt. Logan is an advanced ski mountaineering and high elevation program. You must have previous overnight winter camping experience, be an advanced intermediate downhill skier and an experienced ski-tourer. Previous high altitude mountaineering experience is a huge asset as well.

What's Included

  • Pre-trip planning & support
  • ACMG/IFMGA Certified Guides
  • Shuttle Bus to/from Kluane Lake
  • Ski Plane Flights (in & out)
  • Breakfast & Dinner while on the mountain
  • Group safety equipment (ropes, rescue kit, first-aid kit, etc.)
  • Group camping equipment (stoves, base-camp tent, etc.)
  • Sleds for hauling gear
  • Parks permits & landing fees
  • Black Sheep Adventure Sports swag
  • Alternate plan based on conditions

What's Not Included

  • Accommodation in Whitehorse
  • Meals & equipment while camping at Kluane Lake
  • Personal snacks & lunches for the mountain
  • Personal winter camping equipment & expedition clothing
  • Personal ski touring equipment
  • Any additional costs related to itinerary changes
  • Trip cancellation & medical insurance – very highly recommended
  • Rescue insurance - required
  • Travel to/from Whitehorse

Prerequisites

The King’s Trench route on Mt. Logan is basically a high elevation ski mountaineering route. So, with that in mind, you must be an advanced intermediate downhill skier (able to get down a black diamond ski run). Previous winter camping experience is also needed and it’s great if you have completed some longer ski traverses in the past as you will want some experience skiing up and skiing down with heavier packs. Experience with high altitude is a big asset but not needed.

Please note that there will not be any porters on the trip and so you will be responsible to carry all your  personal equipment and food. You will likely need to help with some group equipment as well.

BlackSheep Adventure Sports will be heading up Mt. Columbia just before the Logan expedition so if you want to finesse your skills and techniques before Logan it’s the ideal opportunity. More info can be found here: Mt. Columbia. We can also offer a Garibaldi Neve traverse immediately before the trip to review systems and test gear.

The weather on Mount Logan in the spring can be highly variable and so you will want to be prepared for a wide range of temperatures. You can expect highs into the +10°C range on sunny days, overnight lows in the -15°C. However, higher on the mountain the temps can drop as low as -30°C overnight.

Clothing:

  • Gore-Tex Shell Jacket
  • Large Down Jacket
  • Insulated Pants
  • Gore-Tex Pants with Side Zips
  • Synthetic Pants for Camp
  • Insulated Jacket Mid-Weight
  • Mid-Weight Shirt
  • Light-Weight Windbreaker
  • 3 Sets of Base Layers
  • 3 Pair of Thick Socks
  • 1 Pair of Mid-Weight Socks
  • Toque/Beanie
  • Sun Hat with a Wide Brim
  • Thick Buff or Neck Tube
  • Light Gloves
  • Insulated Gloves
  • Expedition Mitts

Technical Equipment:

  • 80-100L Expedition Pack
  • Touring Skis, Poles & Skins
  • Alpine Touring Ski Boots
  • Ski Boot Compatible Overboots
  • Ski Crampons
  • Aluminum Boot Crampons
  • 3 Antenna Avalanche Transceiver
  • Shovel & Probe
  • Light Ice Axe (40-60cm)
  • Ski Harness
  • Glacier Gear:
    • Locking Carabiners x 4
    • Non-Locking Carabiner x 4
    • 120-180cm sewn sling x 2
    • Personal Prusik x 1
    • 5m length of 6-7mm cord x 1
  • Sunglasses with Nose Guard (+ spare set)
  • Ski Goggles
  • Large Duffel, 100-120L (we have some available)

Camping & Personal Equipment:

  • 4-Season Tent, 2 or 3 person
  • Down Sleeping Bag rated for -30°C
  • Winter Rated Inflatable Sleeping Pad
  • Foam Sleeping Pad Base
  • Insulated Camp Booties with Gaiters
  • 2 x 1L Water Bottles (insulated or with insulating sleeve)
  • 1 x 1L Pee Bottle
  • Lightweight Cup, Bowl, Fork & Spoon (Fairshare works great)
  • Pocket Knife or Multi-Tool
  • Sill Stuff Sacs for Organizing
  • Sun and Lip Cream
  • Head Lamp w. extra batteries
  • Small Pack of Baby Wipes
  • Toiletries
  • Ear Plugs
  • 2 Rolls of TP
  • Personal First Aid / Blister Kit
  • Diamox (Acetazolamide) 250mg/day
  • Personal Repair Kit
  • Toe warmers (optional)
  • Book, ipod, music, etc. (optional)
  • Satellite Messenger (optional)
  • Medical/Rescue Insurance Info (rescue insurance is required)

Food:

  • Lunches
  • Snacks

Supplied Equipment:

  • Skin Wax
  • Ice Screws
  • Communal Basecamp Tent
  • Stoves, Fuel & Cooking Supplies
  • Glacier Travel & Rescue Equipment
  • Sleds for Hauling Gear
  • High Altitude 1st Aid Kit
  • Basecamp Toilet

Notes:

  • Tents: We want each person to have a tent so that we all have our own when at basecamp at the start of the trip. Then, when higher on the mountain, we will bring half the tents and share them to keep weight down. So expect double occupancy once we start moving up the mountain.
  • When packing, put all the “Must Have’s” in one bag and the “Nice to Have’s” in a separate bag. Then, we can pull from the “Nice to Have’s” when loading the plane if there’s room.

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